Sunday, October 19, 2008

Fall Lawn Care

The leaves are falling all over my lawn and covering the grass. I used to get out there and rake up all of those leaves, set them along the curb, and wait for the truck to come pick them up and haul them away to some dump.

Not anymore. As of 2007, I started pulling out my mower and grinding/mulching them into my lawn. Granted, later as more and more leaves fall, it becomes useless to try and chop them small enough to slip down between the blades of grass. So, for now I mulch. Later, I will still grind the leaves with my mower. Then I'll rake or blow those leaves into my Ivy and Myrtle beds. Some leaves will be used to protect sensitive plants over winter.

Point is this. If enough people start recycling those leaves on their properties, large dump trucks full of leaves may become obsolete. (I'm especially thinking about EGR where we have a loader following the dump truck around to pick up leaves.) Just think how much pollution those trucks and loaders are putting out. Cutting those out of the equation will be a step in the right direction.

Pollution that can be eliminated should be eliminated. I'm no radical, but I do believe that we are caretakers of the Earth. Let's do what we can to be good Stewards of Creation.

By the way, one more benefit: these leaves mulched into your lawn and gardens will decrease the amount of fertilizer necessary to keep them looking healthy.

Thursday, October 9, 2008

Conservation: Reduce Mowing and Watering

One major aspect of resource stewardship is conservation. When it comes to lawn care, conservation may start with reduced mowing. In order to reduce mowings, it is necessary to either reduce the rate of growth, or allow the lawn to grow longer before cutting. Maybe both.


There are two ways to cut back on mowing while maintaining a healthy lawn.

Option One: Reduce growth of your existing lawn. A couple of years back, I came across a group of products called PGR's: Plant Growth Regulators. One such product is Embark by PBI Gordon.  Embark reduces the rate of foliage elongation while encouraging lateral growth. The use of PGR's gives you a thicker, slow-growing lawn. Great idea. I have yet to test these PGR's myself. I am in the process of researching independent studies on the affects of PGR's in regard to the root system and overall health of the turf. Currently, these products are only available to professionals.

Option Two: Lawn Renovation utilizing slow-grow, low-grow grass. There are several companies claiming to sell grass seed that grows lower and slower than previously available cultivars. All of these web sites claim to sell grass seed that, once established, requires little to no regular watering, no fertilization, and reduced mowing. If you could reduce your mowings to once a month, would you do it? I would. I will be puchasing these lawn seeds and testing them myself to see how they live up to their claims.
For more information, check out these sites: http://www.low-grow.com/; http://www.eco-friendly-grass.com/; http://www.protimelawnseed.com/.

Proper lawn mowing can also reduce gas and fertilizer and pesticide use by encouraging a naturally healthy lawn.  Close cropped lawns have become the standard in the United States. Most people cut their lawns as short as two inches. However, studies indicate that lawns kept at a minimum height of three inches suffered less stress than lower cut lawns.

Why is this? Lawns benefit from increased height in three ways:

First, there is a direct correlation between the height at which a lawn is maintained and the depth of its roots. Deeper roots require less watering. If roots only reach two inches, the lawn only benefits when the top one or two inches of the soil is moist. Deeper roots lead to less watering and more drought resistant lawns.


Second, when a lawn is kept longer, it reduces the rate of evaperation, thus, preserving soil moisture. Again, less watering is required and the lawn is more drought resistant.

Third, most weeds prefer full sun. If no light reaches the soil, weed seeds struggle to germinate. Those weeds that do manage to grow are choked out by the more established grass. Weeds cannot easily compete with a healthy lawn.

Site with additional information on PGR's.

http://www.turf.uiuc.edu/hort436/Lec%2016.stm

Thursday, October 2, 2008

LEED Certification: West Michigan Businesses

People, businesses, and municipalities concerned with the environment, those who are seeking to decrease their net impact on the environment, should consider researching and implementing LEED practices into their next building project. Not all contractors, architects and builders are knowledgeable in LEED practices. I would advise you find a LEED Accredited Professional when you are ready to design and build your next project.

In order to earn a LEED Certification, buildings must meet certain standards in regard to their environmental impact.

Various elements in the building process and end product earn points which, put together, can earn the project Silver, Gold, or Platinum LEED Certification. Some of these elements include: recycling of existing building products into the new building (if the building is being restored or re-built), use of solar or wind power, grey water recycling systems (re-uses some types of waste water for irrigation), limiting disturbance of surrounding property, and Roof Garden Installation.
Leading businesses in West Michigan are seeking to do their part to positively affect the environment through LEED Certification of new buildings. Among these Businesses are Meijer, Steelcase, Lacks, Herman-Miller, and Johnson Control. All have dedicated themselves to ensuring a better environment for future generations.